r hospitality,
and even kill a pig in his honour, give him a part of their couch,
etc.; but all this costs them no trouble, and if they are offered
money in return, they take it eagerly enough, without so much as
thanking the donor. As for feeling and attachment, I should almost
be inclined to deny that they possessed them in the slightest
degree; I saw only sensuality, and none of the nobler sentiments. I
shall return to this subject when describing my journey through the
island.

On the 1st of May I witnessed a highly interesting scene. It was
the fete of Louis Philippe, the King of the French; and the
governor, Monsieur Bruat, exerted himself to the utmost to amuse the
population of Tahiti. In the forenoon, there was a tournament on
the water, in which the French sailors were the performers. Several
boats with lusty oarsmen put out to sea. In the bows of each boat
was a kind of ladder or steps, on which stood one of the combatants
with a pole. The boats were then pulled close to one another, and
each combatant endeavoured to push his antagonist into the water.
Besides this, there was a Mat de Cocagne, with coloured shirts,
ribbons, and other trifles fluttering at the top, for whoever chose
to climb up and get them. At 12 o'clock the chiefs and principal
personages were entertained at dinner. On the grass plot before the
governor's house were heaped up various sorts of provisions, such as
salt meat, bacon, bread, baked pork, fruits, etc.; but instead of
the guests taking their places all around, as we had supposed they
would have done, the chiefs divided everything into different
portions, and each carried his share home. In the evening there
were fireworks, and a ball.

No part of the entertainment amused me more than the ball, where I
witnessed the most startling contrasts of art and nature. Elegant
Frenchwomen side by side with their brown, awkward sisters, and the
staff officers in full uniform, in juxta-position with the half-
naked islanders. Many of the natives wore, on this occasion, broad
white trousers, with a shirt over them; but there were others who
had no other garments than the ordinary short shirt and the pareo.
One of the chiefs who appeared in this costume, and was afflicted
with Elephantiasis, {76} offered a most repulsive spectacle.

This evening I saw Queen Pomare for the first time. She is a woman
of 36 years of age, tall and stout, but tolerably well preserved--as
a general rul