erage walking pace, a German mile, occupying on the
average an hour and a half in the traverse, should be equal to four and a
half English miles, and this is the rate at which I have estimated it,
although I have seen it variously stated at less than four, and even at
five English miles.

While on tramp, we rose at five in the morning, and walked till eight
fasting, when we took breakfast--a simple affair of milk, or of coffee
and plain bread, with occasionally a little meat as a luxury--we then
proceeded on our march till twelve, always supposing that a town or
village was at such a distance as to render the arrangement possible,
when we dined. This meal consisted invariably of soup--milk soup, if
possible, peppered and salted like broth--and sometimes meat, but not
always, as it was dear, and supposed to be heavy for walking. As by this
time the sun was in its zenith, and our advance in the great heat would
be most fatiguing, and even dangerous, we laid ourselves down to rest
till three, in the open air if possible, and weather permitting; out on
the fields among the corn; stretched upon the hay in some shady nook; or,
as in Bavaria and Wurtemberg during a great part of the route, under the
apple and plum trees which lined the public way, eating of the fruit
unquestioned and without restraint. After this welcome repose we pursued
our march with renewed animation till eight o'clock, when we sought out a
place of rest; and for our evening meal usually indulged in something
more substantial than at any other time of the day. Our beds were not
always clean, and the lavatorial necessaries either deficient or wholly
wanting, in which latter case the pump was our only substitute.

Our brief stays in towns or cities were by no means the least fatiguing
part of our journey; for it naturally happened that in our anxiety to see
whatever was remarkable or beautiful, in museum, picture-gallery, or
public building, that our time was tasked even more severely than on the
road; always remembering also, that the police required a great deal of
attention. My passport has fourteen distinct _visas_ during this
journey. We found the police in Bavaria the least civil among a very
exacting class of people. Here, for the first time, I heard a mode of
address which is, I think, peculiar to Germany. It is customary to
address strangers in the third person plural, _Se_; or, when on very
familiar or affectionate terms, in the second pers