the twanging of their instruments. Other
places there were, some in the city, and some outside the walls, where an
abominable medley of waltz, smoke, wine, and lotto made up the evening's
entertainment. The larger of these establishments had some pretensions
to gentility, seeing that they did not allow gentlemen to dance with
their hats on; but whatever other claims they set up to the respect of
the community may be briefly set down as worth very little. It will not
unnaturally follow that where there is much liberty there will be some
licence, and with respect to Hamburg, it is in her dance-houses that this
excess is to be found. But where is the wonder? The Hamburger
authorities in this, and some other cases, set up a sort of excise
officer, and grant permits for this frivolity, and that vice, at a
regular scale of charges.

In spite of these half-incentives and whole encouragements to laxity of
behaviour, what is the general character of the Hamburger population? I
venture to call them provident, temperate, and industrious. Let it be
remembered that we speak of a mercantile port, in some parts a little
like Wapping, and into and out of which there is a perpetual ebb and flow
of seamen of all nations, full of boisterous humour, of strong life, and
wilful in their recent escape from ship restraint. The worst of the
dance-houses are situated near the water's edge, and are almost wholly
frequented by sailors; while the other resorts which are open to the
charge of licentiousness, have also a strong proportion of maritime
frequenters, and the rest is mostly made up of the wandering workmen of
Germany, to many of whom Hamburg is a culminating point, and who are, as
it were, out on leave. But, after all, these cancer spots are few
indeed, when compared with the great proportion of the means of amusement
thrown open, or, rather never closed to the people. Wander on the Sunday
when and where you will; in theatre, concert-room, or coffee-house; in
public garden or beer-cellar; you will find them joyous indeed, sometimes
loud in song or conversation, and taking generally a sort of pride in a
dash of rudeness, calling it independence, but you will never find them
sottish; nowhere cumbering the footway with their prostrate carcases;
nowhere reeling zigzag, blear-eyed and stupid, to a miserable home.

On tramp towards the South, we rested on the Sunday in Schwerin, the
capital of Mecklenburg; but there was public mourni