called heueriger. It is
enough that, on All Saints' Day, after wandering awhile about a swampy
churchyard in the suburb of Maria Hilf, to see the melancholy spot of
light which glimmered at each grave-head, I went to the Burg Theatre, and
witnessed Shakespeare's play of "King Lear" (and the best actor in Vienna
played the Fool); and further, that I spent the evening of Christmas Day
in Daum's coffee-house in reading _Galignani's Messenger_, in order to
bring myself, in imagination at least, as near home as possible.

The jewellers in Vienna are not such elderly apprentices as they are in
Hamburg, Leipsic, and the majority of small towns in Germany. They dine
at gast hause, and sleep in the independence of a separate lodging. They
have, therefore, more liberty; but there are many trades in Vienna among
whom the old usages still exist, by which they become a kind of vassals,
living and sleeping under the patriarchal roof. All worked twelve hours
a-day alike, from six till seven, including one hour for dinner. Various
licences were, however, allowed; quarter-of-day or half-hour deductions
were scarcely known; and I have myself spent the morning at a public
execution, without suffering any loss in wages. This brings me to the
Sunday work; and I say, unhesitatingly that, as a system, it does not
exist. I never worked on the Sunday myself during my whole twelve
months' stay. I do not know that there was any law against it; but rest
was felt to be a necessity after a week of seventy-two hours' labour. It
is not unusual, both in Germany and France, to engage new hands on the
Sunday morning, because it is a leisure time, convenient to both master
and workman; and I have sought for work at this time, and found the Herr
in a silk dressing-gown, and white satin slippers with pink bows. I
recollect visiting a working cabinet-maker's on one Sunday morning, whose
men slept on the premises, and found the workshop a perfect model of
cleanliness and order: every tool in its place, and the whole swept and
polished up; and was once invited, under the impression that, as an
Englishman, I ought to know something of newspaper presses, to inspect
those of the Imperial Printing Office, with the last number of the Wiener
Zeitung in type; and this was on a Sunday morning--a time especially
chosen on account of the absence of the workmen. My landlord, a
master-man, would sometimes work in the Sunday morning when hard pressed;
but, if he