eatre, the nature of the
entertainment and the lowness of the price of admission--'Only four
kreutzers for the first place!'

"Continuing our course, we were attracted into a side-street by a crowd,
among whom stood conspicuous a brass musical band, and an old man in a
semi-religious costume of black and white, bearing a large wooden
crucifix in his hand. In anticipation of some religious ceremony, we
waited awhile to watch its development. It was a funeral, and the whole
procession soon formed itself in the following order:--First came the
large crucifix, then a boy bearing a banner on which was painted the
figure of the Virgin; then came six other boys, followed by the same
number of girls, all neatly and cleanly dressed; and then the coffin,
hung with scarlet drapery, adorned with flowers, and having a small
silver crucifix at its head. We were told it was the funeral of a girl
of thirteen. Close upon the coffin came the minister, or priest, clad in
a black, loosish gown, and wearing a curiously crown-shaped cap, also
black. Every head was uncovered as he and the coffin passed. Then came,
as we imagined, the real mourners of the dead, followed by six
exceedingly old women, mourners by profession, and immediately behind
them the brass band which had first attracted our attention. The latter,
as soon as the procession was fairly in motion, burst forth into a noisy,
and by no means melancholy strain, and continued to play for some time;
they suddenly ceased, and there was heard from some one at the head of
the procession a Latin prayer, which was immediately echoed by the old
women in the rear, in the same drowsy, monotonous tone in which the
church responses are usually made. The scene was altogether curious and
striking; the progress of the procession was everywhere marked by
uncovered heads and signs of sympathy and respect; but in spite of its
attempted solemnity, there was a holiday appearance about it which jarred
sadly with its real character of grief and death."

I have given this description a front place because it is the worst thing
I can say of Vienna, and in no other part of the city did I ever see its
like. During a stay of twelve months, I lost no opportunity of enjoying
all that the Viennese enjoyed, or of witnessing whatever was part of the
national customs in festival, holiday, or religious ceremonial. In
addition to the Sundays, which were all, to a certain extent, days of
rejoicing--there