ince the burning of the hotel.
I am happy to state that both at Mukden and Niuchwang modern hotels will
be opened at an early date, both being named the Astor House, a favorite
appellation all through the East.

* * * * *

DALNY: The ride to Dalny (the Japanese wish it called Darien) ended at
nine in the evening; the scenery _en route_ was not unlike that of the
day previous, except that we observed a higher degree of cultivation,
and the plains were more extended, terminating in the distance in low
ranges of hills. We found Dalny modern in appearance, save in a few
large buildings which showed their early origin; the Russians had
planned the place as a model city before the war, which in time might
become a flourishing adjunct to Port Arthur. The city was evacuated
before the siege of Port Arthur, the Russians concentrating all their
strength at the latter point. Dalny is a port of some importance, but we
were told there was little local business to speak of. Tourists are
beginning to go there, as it is a convenient point to remain if one
wishes to visit Port Arthur, which is a long day's excursion, leaving
early in the morning and returning on an evening train. This has,
heretofore, been the customary plan of procedure, owing to superior
hotel facilities at Dalny; but a new hotel was nearly completed at Port
Arthur when we were there.

[Illustration: _Dalny_]

* * * * *

PORT ARTHUR, _June 4th_: We left early for a hard day's excursion to
Port Arthur. The standpoint of the tourist is that of interest and
curiosity to see the port which was so recently the scene of such
tragic events. With military knowledge, the interest would be more in
observing the strategic position and the methods of defence. Before
speaking of the incidents of the day, a brief outline of Port Arthur
will be given as a key to the situation. A view of the place from the
sea is disappointing, as the hills that circle around the bay are bare
and destitute of vegetation and foliage. The foothills of a long
mountain range divide the peninsula of Liao-tung (the circle of the
hills extending over ten miles); several bays also indent the shore.
Viewed from the land side, the town and port lie in an amphitheatre,
hidden from the sea by Golden Hill on one side and by the Tiger's Tail
Peninsula on the other. This strong position was fortified by the
Russians in the newest way.

The defenc