a second
victory even more prolonged and enduring. Amid all the horrors of war,
humanity must not forget the opportunities it furnishes for the display
of such traits." The Tokio and other Japanese papers devoted much space
to accounts of the ceremonies and festivities connected with the
unveiling of the monument. Some of them seemed to regard it as an
emotional display, and others found it impossible to read the accounts
without concluding that the Japanese and Russians had wellnigh, if not
altogether, laid aside their feeling of mutual hostility.

[Illustration: _203-Metre Hill, Port Arthur--The last point to be
taken_]

An English gentleman on the train to Dalny spoke of General Stoessel's
surrender in very caustic terms, basing his position on information
received from one of the officers on the General's staff. It occurred to
me that the officer would not be likely to give favorable testimony, as
there was a possibility of his also suffering penalties in Russia. It
will always be a mooted question whether the surrender was justified by
the condition of affairs at Port Arthur; certainly it was in the
interest of humanity, as it was stated on Japanese authority that there
were at least twenty-five thousand sick at Port Arthur.

On the following morning, we left Dalny, or Darien, by the steamer
_Santo Maru_, for Chemulpo, the port of Seoul, Korea.

* * * * *

CHEMULPO, SEOUL, _June 7th_: Chemulpo is an open port and has quite a
foreign settlement; it now can boast of wide streets and some shops,
but twenty years ago it was nothing more than a fishing village. The
Trans-Siberian Railway is the only means of connection between Chemulpo
and London, twenty-one days being required for the trip. The two hours'
railway ride between Chemulpo and Seoul affords quite diversified
scenery.

The situation of Seoul is beautiful. It is a walled city, the entire
circumference of which is twelve miles, and in this wall are eight
arched gateways. While the wall itself is not high, it seems to cling
near to the sides of the foothills and the mountains. These mountains
are quite bare of vegetation, but the little valleys between the hills
are green, rice being one of the products cultivated.

Korea to us was mostly Seoul, as there is no provision for guests at
present in the mountains. We met a gentleman and his two daughters who
were going to the mountains, but they were to be entertained by a
mis