jecting over the roadway, and giving me the
sensation of imminent danger.

[Illustration: _View of Miyanoshita_]

To the right, far below, was a long extended valley through which poured
a mountain stream, the murmur of which was a continual refrain. On the
other side of the valley was a towering range of mountains. The whole
scene affects one in a peculiarly subtle way; there is a sensation of
being withdrawn from the actual experiences, of living in a new and
far-away world. Suddenly the road diverged, and we had mountains on
either side; another turn, and on a tree was a signboard, "Durkee's
Scotch Whiskey." Instantly the "supreme moment" vanished, and I was
again in my home city, and one of a band of women battling "the
bill-board nuisance." I was rebellious at thus being despoiled of my
poetic mood and tried to regain lost ground, but erelong another turn
and Durkee's Scotch Whiskey again appeared! Sadly I resigned myself to
fate and awaited our arrival at the Fujira Hotel.

It was dark when we reached the little village and went still farther up
the slope to where the lights were gleaming from the circling,
four-divisioned hostelry.

As I entered the spacious hall and caught glimpses of the adjacent
apartments, then went upward to my own dainty room furnished in European
style, I felt a sense of relief. Two little maids appeared to offer
service, a pretty kimono and slippers suggested comfort, and I was
content! Descending to the dining-room a little later, I met an English
lady and her brother, who had been steamer and hotel companions several
times, and this furnished more good cheer.

The following morning, I joined an early party for the excursion to Lake
Hakone. It was a glorious day and promised well for the hoped-for view
of Mt. Fujiyama, 12,000 feet above the sea.

The way is too rough and mountainous to be taken other than in a sedan
chair. At first we had lovely mountain scenery, then the road grew
wilder and mountain gorges appeared on either hand, then in one place
there were far distant mountains, a nearer range almost sloping to our
pathway. Sometimes the ascent was so steep and the path so narrow that
it required much holding on to retain the seat in the chair.

This was even more difficult when we began to make our descent to the
village, which is, however, 2378 feet above the sea (Miyanoshita is 1377
feet). The little Japanese tea-house where we tarried and had our
luncheon is finely locat