heavy pedestals. A three-arched pailow had a very
massive carved cornice and entablature; on the cornice and on each
division of the arch were seated immense carved lions; similar ones were
also on the reverse side of the arch and on the ends, making ten in all,
and adding to the impressiveness of the whole.

We now entered the sacred avenue, lined on each side with ten large
stone animals. The path was much shorter than that visited in Nankow,
and the carving of the animals was less perfect. The avenue ended with a
gateway of three arches, which we did not pass through, but which
contained a memorial tablet mounted on a huge tortoise; beyond this
there was a long oblong building with an effective terrace roof; doors
were placed in each corner of the walled enclosure. At the back rose an
immense mound which covers the tomb. From a high tower overlooking the
mound, we had a view of the entire enclosure.

[Illustration: _The Temple at Mukden_]

The palace at Mukden is a large, imposing pile, built in 1631. There are
many different buildings, all in the peculiar Chinese style with
upturned eaves; these were barricaded while renovation was going on,
and we could obtain glimpses of the interior only through cracks in the
wall. The rooms were large and contained some wall decoration, while the
whole effect was fine, in spite of all the inconveniences experienced in
trying to see them; debris was everywhere. In one building the doors and
windows were sealed with paper strips placed over them; this was the
receptacle for valuable jewels and fine brocaded robes of royalty. We
were first refused admission, but, on our return from the rounds of the
palace, by some magical process (probably a large fee), a door was
opened, and we entered and saw a wonderful display of rich gems,
somewhat barbaric in style, fine swords, daggers, robes, and other
paraphernalia.

The bazars in Mukden were not unlike those throughout China in their
arrangement, but containing not nearly so attractive a display of goods.
The population seemed mixed, judging from the type of faces and from the
head-dress of the women, some of them having the plain, smooth
arrangement of the hair, while others followed the peculiar Manchu
style. Mukden owes its present celebrity to the Russian-Japanese war, as
several battles were fought around it.

* * * * *

_June 1st_: The following day, we took our departure for Niuchwang. We
had