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MADURA: Another very early arrival at Madura, and the programme of the
day before was repeated. Although Madura is a large place, the temples,
gopuras, and palaces are the chief attraction. The famous Palace of
Tirumala Nayak is splendid in its appointments, having large, airy halls
and audience rooms (similar to the Diwan-i-Khas of Delhi and Agra) with
richly decorated ceilings, and the bedchamber is resplendent with
carving and gilding. There is a fine view from the roof of the great
temple. The nine gopuras are tall, massive, and barbaric in their
decorations, which consist of horses, lions, elephants, gods and
goddesses. The great shrines of Siva and his consort are almost
interminable in their extent, and there is a long vestibule or hall
divided into aisles by carved columns. This formed a reception room
for the King in early times, a great contrast to the present scene of
tumultuous venders with almost every variety of goods, who are more
noisy than their brothers of North India.

[Illustration: _The Golden Lily Tank, Madura_]

[Illustration: _Entrance to the Madura Temple_]

Within the temple there are many shrines and many Tamil worshippers;
high-caste Brahmans are also there to minister to the supposed wants of
the higher gods. Galleries led us out to still other shrines, where are
installed additional images of gods, who on fete days are carried about
in gold and silver chariots of untold value. All the most beautiful
portions of the temple as it now stands were built by Tirumala Nayak,
the great Madura ruler of modern times, who ascended the throne in 1623
and reigned thirty-six years.

One of the quadrangles opens out on a tank. An arcade runs around the
tank, and the walls are painted with representations of the most famous
pagodas in India. On the north side is the belfry--strange to relate, an
American bell hangs therein. Here too is the Hall of a Thousand Pillars,
and this is even more remarkable than the same-named hall at
Trichinopoly, on account of the marvellous beauty of the construction.
Near the hall is the great gopura, and opposite this is the new gallery,
of a magnificent plan but unfinished, known as Tirumala's Choultrie.
There is so much of interest and detail connected with all of these
Dravidian temples that one should plan to have more time to devote to
them. The cursory examination we were afforded measures the disadvantage
of an itinerary. We left after luncheon