King, who is now the sole reigning Buddhist monarch, takes the
greatest interest in the maintenance of his faith and everything
belonging to it. He is an ardent Pali scholar, and has established a
college for the study of that ancient language. Nearly every State
function which takes place within the palace walls is associated with
some religious service, and the Buddhist faith seems to be deeply rooted
in the heart of the Siamese people. The sacred books used in the temples
are of palm-leaf, similar in style to those seen in Burma; a large
number of women are employed in a factory for their manufacture, while
many men are also there for the purpose of engraving characters on the
palm-leaf with a set of special implements.

It had been a perfect afternoon, and the shores of the broad river Menam
(meaning "Mother of Waters") were more than usually interesting on
account of the novel architectural display, temples alternating with
buildings of various descriptions, most of them gleaming white in the
sun. We made a detour into the Klong Canal, which led out of the river
some miles from our starting-point. Soon we had an entirely different
type of scenery, similar to the jungle; dense vegetation came quite to
the edge of the canal. In places there would be two, three, or even more
Siamese houses built high on piles, with thatched roofs and sides and an
open front, the home life of the inmates being distinctly seen through
the open front. Of course our launch served to collect all the curious
in groups, from infants to grandparents. Ever and anon tiny boats passed
us, the rowers singing or twanging some kind of an instrument with that
happy unconsciousness of responsibility which seems to characterize the
Siamese, reminding one of the days in Rangoon.

We came at last to a point where navigation was impeded because of a
large vessel aground, and after skilful manoeuvring and some minutes'
delay, our launch proceeded on the homeward way. Night was upon us
before we left the canal, and as the twilight faded, the gleaming of the
lights in the little homes put a finishing touch to the picture. Once on
the broad river, the shore effect was more wonderful than by day, and we
lost all note of time until we were told at the hotel landing that it
was half-past seven o'clock.

The following morning we left, at half-past six, for an excursion by
rail and river to the old capital, Ayuthia. The ride of three hours in a
car presented no