with its high rocky shores, towering mountains in
the background, and a terraced city in the foreground--gave us a new
sensation. We landed at Kowloon and were taken across to Hong-Kong
(which, properly and legally speaking, is Victoria).

[Illustration: _A general view of Hong-Kong_]

[Illustration: _The public gardens in Hong-Kong_]

Fronting the landing is a long street of fine stone business houses,
which extend tier after tier from the shore and in a way represent the
city's commercial importance.

The Hong-Kong Hotel is situated in the business centre; although under
English management, the service was entirely Chinese, and at luncheon we
were confronted by an array of waiters with braids around their heads
and wearing long blue garments made like aprons; the ensemble was indeed
most depressing. The menu presented a curious feature, the courses being
numbered, and you were expected to point to the number, but woe to any
one who wished an egg boiled four minutes or a piece of rare roast!

Hong-Kong is on the north shore of the island, and dampness prevails
even when it does not rain (there is an unusual amount of rain); in
consequence, great care has to be observed by the residents, both of
their homes and clothing. Yet, notwithstanding this and other
disabilities, the English have made the island "blossom like a rose."
Engineering enterprise has converted the mountain-side into an
attractive residence centre. A railway leading to the Peak (the highest
point in the landscape) is not only a convenience, but a pleasure on
account of the magnificent view afforded along the ascent. A little
lower is an attractive Peak Hotel, which is popular with residents. At
every point on the heights there are features to impress one, as we
found the afternoon of our arrival, when we took jinrikishas to visit
Happy Valley, where are located the public garden and the Protestant
cemetery, which is also laid out like a park. The Catholic cemetery is
near by and has the same general features. Happy Valley is also the
scene for various sports, such as golf, tennis, croquet, and racing, in
which Hong-Kong abounds.

The afternoon of our visit, we walked about to various points, enjoying
the views, and commending the perfection which had been wrought since
1842, when China ceded the island to Great Britain. Realizing that
Hong-Kong was destined to be a world port, England some years since
leased a portion of the mainland from China fo