armony in which the city grew in every direction from it, like
an emanation from its music, till the last house sank away into
the pathetic solitude of the Campagna, with nothing beyond but the
snow-capped mountains lighting up the remotest distance. At the same
moment I experienced a rapture in reflecting that I had underpaid
three hackmen during my stay in Rome, and thus contributed to avenge
my race for ages of oppression.

The vastness of St. Peter's itself is best felt in looking down upon
the interior from the gallery that surrounds the inside of the dome,
and in comparing one's own littleness with the greatness of all the
neighboring mosaics. But as to the beauty of the temple, I could not
find it without or within.

VI.

In Rome one's fellow-tourists are a constant source of gratification
and surprise. I thought that American travellers were by no means the
most absurd among those we saw, nor even the loudest in their approval
of the Eternal City. A certain order of German greenness affords,
perhaps, the pleasantest pasturage for the ruminating mind. For
example, at the Villa Ludovisi there was, beside numerous Englishry
in detached bodies, a troop of Germans, chiefly young men, frugally
pursuing the Sehenswuerdigkeiten in the social manner of their nation.
They took their enjoyment very noisily, and wrangled together with
furious amiability as they looked at Guercino's "Aurora." Then two of
them parted from the rest, and went to a little summer-house in the
gardens, while the others followed us to the top of the Casino. There
they caught sight of their friends in the arbor, and the spectacle
appeared to overwhelm them. They bowed, they took off their hats, they
waved their handkerchiefs. It was not enough: one young fellow mounted
on the balustrade of the roof at his neck's risk, lifted his hat on
his cane and flourished it in greeting to the heart's-friends in the
arbor, from whom he had parted two minutes before.

In strange contrast to the producer of this enthusiasm, so pumped and
so unmistakably mixed with beer, a fat and pallid Englishwoman sat
in a chair upon the roof and coldly, coldly sketched the lovely
landscape. And she and the blonde young English girl beside her
pronounced a little dialogue together, which I give, because I saw
that they meant it for the public:

_The Young Girl_.--I wonder, you knoa, you don't draw-ow St. Petuh's!

_The Artist_.--O ah, you knoa, I can draw-ow St. Petuh's