ng first with the
oyster-man upon the price, he had been obliged to pay this scamp's
extortionate demand to the full, since he was unable to restore him
his property. We thought that something like this might have happened
to an imprudent man in any country, but we did not the less join him
in abusing the Italians--the purpose for which foreigners chiefly
visit Italy.
II.
Standing on the height among the ruins of Tiberius's palace, the
patriarch had looked out over the waters, and predicted for the morrow
the finest weather that had ever been known in that region; but in
spite of this prophecy the day dawned stormily, and at breakfast time
we looked out doubtfully on waves lashed by driving rain. The entrance
to the Blue Grotto, to visit which we had come to Capri, is by a
semicircular opening, some three feet in width and two feet in height,
and just large enough to admit a small boat. One lies flat in the
bottom of this, waits for the impulse of a beneficent wave, and is
carried through the mouth of the cavern, and rescued from it in like
manner by some receding billow. When the wind is in the wrong quarter,
it is impossible to enter the grot at all; and we waited till nine
o'clock for the storm to abate before we ventured forth. In the mean
time one of the Danish gentlemen, who--after assisting his companion
to compel the boatmen to justice the night before--had stayed at
Capri, and had risen early to see the grotto, returned from it, and we
besieged him with a hundred questions concerning it. But he preserved
the wise silence of the boy who goes in to see the six-legged calf,
and comes out impervious to the curiosity of all the boys who are
doubtful whether the monster is worth their money. Our Dane would
merely say that it was now possible to visit the Blue Grotto; that he
had seen it; that he was glad he _had_ seen it. As to its blueness,
Messieurs--yes, it is blue. _C'est i dire_....
The ladies had been amusing themselves with a perusal of the hotel
register, and the notes of admiration or disgust with which the
different sojourners at the inn had filled it. As a rule, the English
people found fault with the poor little hostelry and the French people
praised it. Commander Joshing and Lieutenant Prattent, R.N., of
the former nation, "were cheated by the donkey women, and thought
themselves extremely fortunate to have escaped with their lives from
the effects of Capri vintage. The landlord was an old Cossa
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