l of
soldiers looking far more cheery, far more snappy, than the heavy
footed German soldiers who so painfully tramped down Unter den
Linden. Many soldiers were to be seen without an arm or leg,
something impossible in Germany where, especially in Berlin, it
has been the policy of the Government to conceal those maimed by
war from the people at home. Although constantly walking the
streets of Berlin I never saw a German soldier without an arm or
leg. Once motoring near Berlin I came upon a lonely country house
where, through the iron rails of the surrounding park, numbers of
maimed soldiers peered out, prisoners of the autocratic
government which dared not show its victims to the people.

At night in Paris the taxicabs and autos rushed dangerously
through streets darkened to baffle the Zeppelins. In the hotel
there was little heat, only wood fires in one's room. In the
homes a single electric light bulb was permitted for each room;
violation of this rule meant loss of electric light from that
apartment for three weeks.

In the Ritz Restaurant there were lights on the table only. And
the gloomy dining room, where a few Americans and British
officers and their families conversed in whispers, resembled but
little the gay resort so often filled, before the war, with
American millionaires. Olivier, the head waiter, appeared only at
night, absent during the day on war duties. No lights, no music,
it is hard to think of Paris without these, Paris which calls
itself the "Ville Lumiere"--the City of Light.

On our first Sunday in Paris a grand concert was held in the
Trocadero--a great government owned auditorium on the banks of
the Seine,--under Canadian auspices. When Ambassador Sharp and I
entered the centre box the vast audience rose and cheered--a new
sensation for me to be so welcomed after my war-years in Berlin,
where I had been harried and growled at, the representative of a
hated people, of a people at once envied for their wealth, hated
because they had dared to keep their rights and treaties and sell
goods to the enemies of Germany, and despised because the Germans
believed them too rich and cowardly, too fat and degenerate, to
fight in the great war for the mastery of the world.

Lord Esher called on me at the hotel and invited me on behalf of
Field Marshal Haig, to visit the British line. I am sorry that I
did not have time to accept this invitation, especially as in
Germany I had not even heard the distant