otherwise your men can help
themselves in the gardens, for such are the laws of the land when a
king's guest travels in it. Any one found selling anything to either
yourself or your men would be punished." Accordingly, I stopped the
daily issue of beads; but no sooner had I done so, than all my men
declared they could not eat plantains. It was all very well, they said,
for the Waganda to do so, because they were used to it, but it did not
satisfy their hunger.

Maula, all smirks and smiles, on seeing me order the things out for
the march, begged I would have patience, and wait till the messenger
returned from the king; it would not take more than ten days at the
most. Much annoyed at this nonsense, I ordered my tent to be pitched. I
refused all Maula's plantains, and gave my men beads to buy grain with;
and, finding it necessary to get up some indignation, said I would not
stand being chained like a dog; if he would not go on ahead, I should
go without him. Maula then said he would go to a friend's and come back
again. I said, if he did not, I should go off; and so the conversation
ended.

26th.--Drumming, singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing had been going
on these last two days and two nights to drive the Phepo or devil out of
a village. The whole of the ceremonies were most ludicrous. An old man
and woman, smeared with white mud, and holding pots of pombe in their
laps, sat in front of a hut, whilst other people kept constantly
bringing them baskets full of plantain-squash, and more pots of pombe.
In the courtyard fronting them, were hundreds of men and women dressed
in smart mbugus--the males wearing for turbans, strings of abrus-seeds
wound round their heads, with polished boars' tusks stuck in in a jaunty
manner. These were the people who, drunk as fifers, were keeping up
such a continual row to frighten the devil away. In the midst of this
assembly I now found Kachuchu, Rumanika's representative, who went on
ahead from Karague palace to tell Mtesa that I wished to see him. With
him, he said, were two other Wakungu of Mtesa's, who had orders to bring
on my party and Dr K'yengo's. Mtesa, he said, was so mad to see us, that
the instant he arrived at the palace and told him we wished to visit
him, the king caused "fifty big men and four hundred small ones" to be
executed, because, he said, his subjects were so bumptious they would
not allow any visitors to come near him, else he would have had white
men before