t went outside the ranks of a three-sided
square of squatting Wakungu, all inhabited in skins, mostly cow-skins;
some few of whom had, in addition, leopard-cat skins girt round the
waist, the sign of royal blood. Here I was desired to halt and sit in
the glaring sun; so I donned my hat, mounted my umbrella, a phenomenon
which set them all a-wondering and laughing, ordered the guard to close
ranks, and sat gazing at the novel spectacle! A more theatrical sight
I never saw. The king, a good-looking, well-figured, tall young man of
twenty-five, was sitting on a red blanket spread upon a square platform
of royal grass, encased in tiger-grass reeds, scrupulously well dressed
in a new mbugu. The hair of his head was cut short, excepting on the
top, where it was combed up into a high ridge, running from stem to
stern like a cockscomb. On his neck was a very neat ornament--a large
ring, of beautifully-worked small beads, forming elegant patterns by
their various colours. On one arm was another bead ornament, prettily
devised; and on the other a wooden charm, tied by a string covered with
snakeskin. On every finger and every toe, he had alternate brass and
copper rings; and above the ankles, halfway up to the calf, a stocking
of very pretty beads. Everything was light, neat, and elegant in its
way; not a fault could be found with the taste of his "getting up."
For a handkerchief he held a well-folded piece of bark, and a piece of
gold-embroidered silk, which he constantly employed to hide his large
mouth when laughing, or to wipe it after a drink of plantain-wine, of
which he took constant and copious draughts from neat little gourd-cups,
administered by his ladies-in-waiting, who were at once his sisters
and wives. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman--the Uganda
cognisance--were by his side, as also a knot of staff officers, with
whom he kept up a brisk conversation on one side; and on the other was a
band of Wichezi, or lady-sorcerers, such as I have already described.

I was now asked to draw nearer within the hollow square of squatters,
where leopard-skins were strewed upon the ground, and a large copper
kettledrum, surmounted with brass bells on arching wires, along with
two other smaller drums covered with cowrie-shells, and beads of colour
worked into patterns, were placed. I now longed to open conversation,
but knew not the language, and no one near me dared speak, or even lift
his head from fear of being accused of eye