ew of the lake, we reached Ugonzi, and after another march of the
same description, came to Kituntu, the last officer's residence in Uddu.
Formerly it was the property of a Beluch named Eseau, who came to this
country with merchandise, trading on account of Said Said, late Sultan
of Zanzibar; but having lost it all on his way here, paying mahongo, or
taxes, and so forth he feared returning, and instead made great friends
with the late king Sunna, who took an especial fancy to him because
he had a very large beard, and raised him to the rank of Mkungu. A few
years ago, however, Eseau died, and left all his family and property to
a slave named Uledi, who now, in consequence, is the border officer.
I became now quite puzzled whilst thinking which was the finest spot I
had seen in Uddu, so many were exceedingly beautiful; but I think I gave
the preference to this, both for its own immediate neighbourhood and the
long range of view it afforded of Uganda proper, the lake, and the large
island, or group of islands, called Sese where the king of Uganda keeps
one of his fleets of boats.
Some little boys came here who had all their hair shaved off excepting
two round tufts on either side of the head. They were the king's pages;
and, producing three sticks, said they had brought them to me from their
king, who wanted three charms or medicines. Then placing one stick
on the ground before me, they said, "This one is a head which, being
affected by dreams of a deceased relative, requires relief"; the second
symbolised the king's desire for the accomplishment of a phenomenon to
which the old phalic worship was devoted; "and this third one," they
said, "is a sign that the king wants a charm to keep all his subjects in
awe of him." I then promised I would do what I could when I reached the
palace, but feared to do anything in the distance. I wished to go
on with the march, but was dissuaded by N'yamgundu, who said he had
received orders to find me some cows here, as his king was most anxious
I should be well fed. Next day, however, we descended into the Katonga
valley, where, instead of finding a magnificent broad sheet of water, as
I had been led to expect by the Arabs' account of it, I found I had to
wade through a succession of rush-drains divided one from the other by
islands. It took me two hours, with my clothes tucked up under my arms,
to get through them all; and many of them were so matted with weeds,
that my feet sank down a
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