more than fear; and even in remote Szechuan I met men who knew
that the American Government had returned the Boxer indemnity, and who
looked kindly upon me for that reason. If the word of certain foreigners
is to be trusted, I gained in not knowing the language; the people would
not take advantage of my helplessness. That seems rather incredible; if
it is true, the whole Western world has something to learn of China.

But I could not have done what I did without the wise and generous aid
of many whom I met along the way, Europeans and Chinese, officials,
merchants, and above all missionaries, everywhere the pioneers. To them
all I tender here my grateful thanks. And to the representatives of the
Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank wherever I met them, and also to those of
the Russo-Asiatic Bank I would express my gratitude for many courtesies
shown me.

As I look back I know it was worth while, all of it. Half a dozen months
count for little toward the real understanding of a strange
civilization, but it is something to have seen a great people in its
home, to have watched it at work and at play, for you have been forced
once again to realize that although "East is East and West is West," the
thing that most matters is the nature of the man, and that everywhere
human nature is much the same.

THE ORCHARD,
WELLESLEY, MASSACHUSETTS,
November, 1912.

CONTENTS

I. ACROSS TONKING 3

II. DAYS IN YUNNAN-FU 24

III. ACROSS YUNNAN 41

IV. THE CHIEN-CH'ANG 71

V. ON THE MANDARIN ROAD 101

VI. TACHIENLU 123

VII. THE LESSER TRAIL 139

VIII. ACROSS CHENGTU PLAIN 161

IX. OMEI SHAN, THE SACRED 180

X. DOWN THE YANGTSE 202

XI. FROM THE GREAT RIVER TO THE GREAT WALL 221

XII. THE MONGOLIAN GRASSLAND 236

XIII. ACROSS THE DESERT OF GOBI 256

XIV. URGA, THE SACRED CITY 276

XV. NORTH TO THE SIBERIAN RAILWAY 289

XVI. A FEW FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF CHINA 308

INDEX 323