as Big Trees and
the Yosemite Valley in twelve days out from Stockton, where we
expect to arrive August 2. Mrs. Stanton is to speak there Thursday
night and I at San Jose, where I shall learn whether the press has
forgiven me. We both lecture the rest of the week, and Sunday get
into San Francisco, speak at different points the 7th and 8th, and
on the 9th go to the Geysers and stay two nights; then out again
and on with meetings almost every night till the end of the month.
We shall visit lakes Donner and Tahoe and some other points of
interest as they come in our reach. Mr. Hutchings would not take a
penny for our three days' sojourn in the valley, horses and all, so
our trip is much less expensive than we had anticipated.
With our private carriage we drove three miles nearer the top of
the mountain than the stage passengers go. Mrs. Stanton and I each
had a pair of linen bloomers which we donned last Thursday morning
at Crane's Flats, and we arrived at the brow of the mountain at 9
o'clock. Our horses were fitted out with men's saddles, and Mrs.
Stanton, perfectly confident that she would have no trouble, while
I was all doubts as to my success, insisted that I should put my
foot over the saddle first, which I did by a terrible effort. Then
came her turn, but she was so fat and her pony so broad that her
leg wouldn't go over into the stirrup nor around the horn of a
sidesaddle, so after trying several different saddles she commenced
the walk down hill with her guide leading her horse, and commanded
me to ride on with the other. By this time the sun was pouring down
and my horse was slowly fastening one foot after another in the
rocks and earth and thus carefully easing me down the steeps, while
my guide baited me on by saying, "You are doing nicely, that is the
worst place on the trail," when the fact was it hardly began to
match what was coming.
At half-past two we reached Hutchings', and a more used-up mortal
than I could not well exist, save poor Mrs. Stanton, four hours
behind in the broiling sun, fairly sliding down the mountain. I had
Mr. Hutchings fit out my guide with lunch and tea, and send him
right back to her. About six she arrived, pretty nearly jelly. We
both had a hot bath and she went supperless to bed, but I took my
rations. Presently John K. McLean and par
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