ipboard deciding her to go by stage. From
Roseburg she wrote her mother, November 24:

I am now over one hundred miles on my stage-route south, and
horrible indeed are the roads--miles and miles of corduroy and then
twenty miles of "Joe Lane black mud," as they call it, because old
Joseph Lane settled right here in the midst of it. It is heavy clay
without a particle of loam and rolls up on the wheels until rim,
spokes and hub are one solid circle. The wheels cease to turn and
actually slide over the ground, and then driver and men passengers
jump out and with chisels and shingles cut the clay off the wheels.

* * * * *

How my thought does turn homeward, mother. I wanted always to be at
home every recurring birthday of yours so long as you remained this
side with us. I can not this year, but in spirit I shall be with
you all that day, as I am so very, very often on every other day.

The courtesy of a seat outside with the driver was usually extended to
her and she picked up much information in regard to the people and
customs, some of it perhaps not wholly reliable. On this journey she
encountered a drenching rain and heavy snow, and finally was driven
inside. When they stopped for the night she had a little, cold bedroom,
sometimes next to the bar-room, where the carousing kept her awake all
night. She wrote home from Yreka, November 28:

Last evening I lectured in the courthouse to a splendid audience,
and speak again this afternoon at 2 o'clock to answer objections.
Several lawyers threaten to be on hand and force me to the wall on
legal points, but we shall see. Then at four I am to drive with
Mrs. Jerome Churchill, and at seven board the stage again for Red
Bluff, 125 miles, riding steadily all tonight and the next day and
night. It is snowing here and southward, which delays us more and
more every day.

I rode three miles yesterday for a full view of Mount Shasta, but
the summit was hidden by a dense fog, and I saw only one of its
side-points called the crater; so all hope of seeing this lofty
snow-peak is over, unless it should clear off and I see it by
moonlight as I go out tonight. This long stage route is a new and
interesting experience to me, and I am so glad I returned this way.
The first day, in spite of the corduroy ruckabuck jouncing, I felt
a sort of halo