animated than when we landed the day previously; men on horseback,
women on foot, sailors, fishermen, idlers, children, and a swarm of
water-carriers, mingling together, gave life to the scene; while boats
and graceful canoes drawn up on the beach, barges rocking at their
anchors outside, the grim old fort frowning above, and the green border
of trees, with bars of sunlight streaming between them, all contributed
to heighten and give effect to the picture. We rode up the glacis of the
old castle, through its broken archway, into its elevated area, and
looked out beyond the broad and beautiful lake, upon the distant shores
of Chontales, with its earthquake-river, hills, and rugged volcanic
craters. Their rough features were brought out sharply and distinctly in
the slanting light which gilded the western slope of the gigantic
volcano of Momobacho, while its eastern declivity slept in purple
shadow. We were absorbed in contemplating, one by one, these varied
beauties, when the bells of the city struck the hour of the "oracion."
In an instant every voice was hushed, the horseman reined in his steed,
the rope dropped from the hands of the sailor, the sentinel on the fort
stopped short in his round; even the water-jar was left half filled,
every head was uncovered, and every lip moved in prayer. The merry waves
seemed to break more gently on the shore in harmony with the vibrations
of the distant bells, while the subdued hum of reverential voices filled
the pauses between. There was something almost magical in this sudden
hush of the multitude, and its apparent entire absorption in its
devotions, which could not fail deeply to impress the stranger
witnessing it for the first time.

"No sooner, however, had the bells ceased to toll and struck up the
concluding joyful chime, than the crowd on the shore resumed its life
and gayety, while we put spurs to our horses and darted through their
midst on our return to the city. The commandant and his companions would
only leave me at my door, where we were saluted by our host with, "Saved
your distance, gentlemen, dinner's ready!"

"An evening visit to the Senorita Teresa, finished our first entire day
in Granada. This young lady had been educated in the United States,
spoke English very well, and was withal a proficient in
music--accomplishments which we never before learned to estimate at
their true value. It was worth something to hear well executed passages
from familiar operas,