off his jersey.

To get rid of rats is, therefore, well-nigh impossible, though a plan
adopted by some Europeans of keeping a boa-constrictor between the
roofs and ceilings of their bungalows is the most effectual.

There are many snakes in Borneo, but none, with the exception of the
cobra, are deadly. Centipedes and scorpions are common, and the
Tarantula spider is also occasionally, though rarely, met with.

After nearly a fortnight's stay in the capital, we made preparations
for an excursion to Matang, of which we wished to make the ascent, and
whither we were about to accompany Mr. H., who was formerly agent of
the Raja's coffee estate, half-way up the mountain.

CHAPTER IV.

Travel in Borneo--Travelling Boats--Leave for Matang--
Our Crew--Alligators--Mosquitoes--Matang Bungalow--The
Garden--Ascend the Mountain--The Waterfall--A Nasty
Jump--View from the Summit--Snakes--Return to Kuching.

Travelling in the south-western districts of Borneo, and indeed
generally throughout the island, excepting in the far north and
interior, is done in boats, the density of its forests and swampy
nature of the ground rendering journeys overland in most parts of the
territory next to impossible. Jungle paths there are, running inland
to native houses, and "padi" (rice) clearings, as well as one or two
native roads of considerable length, such as the one leading from
Lundu, in Sarawak, to the Dutch settlement of Sambas, a distance of
twenty-eight miles; but the walking is very severe, and the journey
but seldom attempted except by Dyaks.

Its rivers may therefore be said to be the highways of Sarawak, and,
fortunately for the traveller, it is a well-watered country. The
Rejang, Batang Lupar, and Sarawak rivers are the largest, while among
many other smaller streams are the Sadong, Saribus, Kalaka, Eyan,
Muka, and Oya; the three latter, although small, are very important,
as they run through the sago districts, where are large forests of
that palm.

The travelling boats used by Europeans are propelled by means of
paddles, and vary considerably in size, from those pulled by six or
eight men, to those having a crew of thirty or forty, some of the Dyak
war canoes holding as many as eighty men. The latter are used only on
expeditions against the enemy. The ordinary travelling boat is roofed
over from stem to stern with "kadjangs," or dried palm-leaf awnings,
having a space in the centre some 8 feet long or more,