at our journey across was anything but a pleasant one. We were not
sorry, therefore, when at daybreak on the 31st of July the long low
coast of Java came in sight, and shortly afterwards the lighthouse
standing at the entrance of the canal leading up to the old town of
Batavia. We anchored in the bay at nine o'clock, and awaited the
arrival of the little tug which was to convey us to the custom-house,
and which we could now see issuing from the mouth of the canal.

It may not be generally known that the Dutch possess nearly the whole
of the Eastern Archipelago, with the exception of north and
south-western Borneo. Java is, however, their most important colony,
and Batavia they have christened the "Paris of the East," though I
must acknowledge I have heard none but Dutchmen call it so.

The tug was alongside by ten o'clock, and we were soon aboard and
entering the double sea wall which forms the canal. We passed on our
right the large lighthouse which has proved so fatal a residence to
Europeans, no less than five died within six months of its completion,
and it has been found necessary to place Javanese in charge ever
since, so unhealthy is the situation. Arrived at the custom-house we
passed our boxes with some little trouble, and selecting a "kahar," or
species of carriage like a victoria, drawn by two ponies, we drove off
to the Pension Nederlanden, to which hotel we had been recommended by
our naval friends at Singapore.

The lower part of the town, or, as it is called, Old Batavia, consists
entirely of warehouses, go-downs, and native houses. No Europeans can
live here, so unhealthy is it, nor can even one night be passed in
this quarter with impunity. The upper town--which is named
Weltereoden, "well content"--consists of Government House and the
houses of all the officials and merchants in Batavia. Most of these
houses are situated around the "Koenig's Plein," a large grass plain
some 1,000 yards in circumference, which in the time of the English
occupation was used as a racecourse. On one side of this stands the
governor's palace, a large stone building of modern architecture,
while on the other side of the plain is a statue of the Netherland
lion. The inscription on this amused me not a little, as it
commemorates the victory of the Belgians over the French at Waterloo,
the British troops not being mentioned.

There are two ways of reaching Weltereoden from Old Batavia, by
railway and tramcar. Where are ther