paid a visit while here to the house of Mr. D.,
who has resided in Java for thirty years, and who owns a large estate
(Koerapan) some eighteen miles out of Buitenzorg. He told us that
coffee, tea, and rice were growing on the estate, and he was about to
try cinchona (quinine). The latter is the most paying of all, and the
soil and climate of Java are peculiarly adapted to its growth.

We made several excursions in addition to this while at Buitenzorg,
but none worthy of record. In truth a more uninteresting country than
this part of the island I have seldom seen, and, as L. remarked, very
few weeks of Buitenzorg would fill Hanwell!

One incident, however, I should not omit to mention: a grand review of
the troops was held during our stay here, in the Palace Park, and
having obtained cards, we were admitted to view the proceedings. I was
not impressed with the Javanese army, for a more wretched,
undersized-looking set of men it has seldom been my lot to witness. It
is not to be wondered at, after seeing them, that Atchin has held out
so long, and unless a great reform takes place in the Dutch colonial
army, it will probably continue to do so.

Europeans and natives are alike indiscriminately mixed up in their
ranks, and it is no uncommon sight to see a Malay sergeant in command
of a European guard. Their uniform did not tend to improve their
personal appearance, consisting as it did of a thick blue cloth-tunic,
with long skirts, a French kepi, blue trousers, and bare feet.
Considering this absurd dress, it is not to be wondered at that
sunstroke is frequent among the European privates, most of whom are
escaped French communists.

[Illustration: TOWN OF SINTANG.

(DUTCH BORNEO.)]

The garrison at Buitenzorg consisted of 800 men, but of these only
about 600 were on parade the remainder being in hospital. I afterwards
ascertained from the doctor in charge of this building that, thanks
to fever, drink, and sunstroke, it was seldom empty, and that the
death-rate amongst the European soldiers was exceedingly high.

We watched them going through their (so-called) drill for over an
hour, and even in that short time three were carried off the field in
a fainting condition.

On our return to the hotel we passed a criminal being taken to the
railway station _en route_ for Batavia, where he was to be executed on
the morrow. Unlike Borneo and other islands of the Archipelago,
hanging is had recourse to in Java, and in Java