k lanes, teeming with people, filth, and squalor, and
every window, doorway, or hole in the wall with something in it for
sale. Veiled women and shuttered upper windows in the better class
residential quarter hinted romance to those who had read the adventures
of the Khalif. A wedding procession, and, again, a funeral procession
were passed. The effect of the first was unusual, and the music that
accompanied it had a mournful touch not noticeable in the second. The
native police along the route were most attentive and cleared the way on
every occasion. The traffic was considerable--mostly pedestrian, but
with electric tramcars, donkeys, and horse gharris in large numbers.
After one or two rests on the way, the Battalion at length came to a
halt on an open space under the massive west wall of the Citadel. This
place was to become better known later on, but on this occasion
curiosity and interest were subordinated to the desire for cool drinks
and rest. About an hour later the return march was commenced and camp
reached some time after dark.

On the 17th July the quarantine restrictions were removed. A system was
instituted whereby 25 per cent. were able to leave camp after evening
parade on week days, 12 noon on Saturdays, and 8 a.m. on Sundays. Leave
was usually commenced by tours within the city and visits to the Mouski
for the purpose of purchasing gifts for the people at home. Here western
methods were copied by some of the shopkeepers, and a sign which read--

SUCCOUR SALE, DRAPERIE HIGH LIFE

suggested that bargains might be hoped for. Gharri drives were popular
but some men, with humane feeling, were averse to being hauled by a
beast almost too poor and degraded to be longer termed a horse and one
which, in our own land, would have received the attention of the
S.P.C.A. The drivers of these vehicles cleared their way through the
pedestrian traffic by cries such as "Ya meenuk" (To the right), "She
maluk" (To the left), or "Owar riglak" (Mind your legs), repeated
incessantly.

Donkey rides seemed to provide a certain amount of amusement. The beasts
were hardy, and it was no uncommon sight to see two or three Australians
trying the speed of their mounts down one of the main
streets--enthusiastically encouraged by the donkeys' owners.
Occasionally donkey and rider were facing in opposite directions. When
tired, the soldier could go for rest to the Club established in the open
air of the Esbeki