ot be held
in the same manner.
A too common error is to press the tool too hard on the stone. This is
wrong. Do not try to force the grinding.
Then, again, it is the practice of some to turn the stone away from the
tool. The stone should always move toward the tool, so as to prevent
forming a feather edge.
THE PLANE.--Indiscriminate use of planes should be avoided. Never use
the fore or smoothing planes on rough surfaces. The jack plane is the
proper tool for this work. On the other hand, the fore plane should
invariably be used for straightening the edges of boards, or for fine
surfacing purposes. As the jack plane has its bit ground with a curved
edge, it is admirably adapted for taking off the rough saw print
surface.
THE GAGE.--The illustration (Fig. 19) shows one of the most useful tools
in the kit. It is used to scribe the thickness of the material which is
to be dressed down, or for imprinting the edges of tenons and mortises.
Two should be provided in every kit, for convenience.
The scribing point should be sharpened with a file, the point being
filed to form a blade, which is at right angles to the bar, or parallel
with the movable cheekpiece.
CHISELS.--I have already pointed out, in general, how to hold tools for
grinding purposes, this description applying particularly to chisels,
but several additional things may be added.
Always be careful to grind the chisel so its cutting edge is square with
the side edge. This will be difficult at first, but you will see the
value of this as you use the tool. For instance, in making rebates for
hinges, or recesses and mortises for locks, the tool will invariably run
crooked, unless it is ground square.
The chisel should never be struck with a hammer or metal instrument, as
the metal pole or peon of the hammer will sliver the handle. The wooden
mallet should invariably be used.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.--If the workman will carefully observe the
foregoing requirements he will have taken the most important steps in
the knowledge of the art. If he permits himself to commence work without
having his tools in first-class condition, he is trying to do work under
circumstances where even a skilled workman is liable to fail.
Avoid making for yourself a lot of unnecessary work. The best artisans
are those who try to find out and know which is the best tool, or how to
make a tool for each requirement, but that tool, to be serviceable, must
be properly made, and
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