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und hat, and wear long loose dresses almost reaching to their heels, with a band round their waist. They carry a tin plate between their shoulders with a number on it; never drive with blinkers, and rarely use a whip, but having a rein in each hand, urge on their little horses at great speed over the uneven pavement without once coming down, so far as we observed. There are other carriages like our English cabs drawn by one or two horses, but the droshky is in most general use. We did not see many equipages, most of the nobility having left the city, and very few gentlemen on horseback save a few Cossacks or other military. Passing through the streets, we were astonished at the vast number of pigeons flying in all directions, and frequently alighting in the most crowded parts of the city. This bird, we were informed, is held sacred by the natives, and of course would soon become very numerous if they were not diminished by foreigners and others less scrupulous, who are supposed to convey them quietly from their roosting quarters to form an important part in culinary operations. The working men go about in what we were used to call top-boots, and even little boys have them, with the upper part variously coloured, but mostly red, a favourite colour in Russia. The serf wears a long coat reaching to the calves of his legs, with a number of gathers fastened together at the waist by a strap, in which he tucks his gloves, his whip or his axe. His shirt of checked linen, not often washed, and his neck entirely bare, with the lower garment consisting of wide linen trousers. With the use of stockings he appears totally unacquainted, wrapping his feet in linen rags. His shoes are a sort of sandal made of linden bark or leather, continuing his ragged wrapper up to his knees, binding it round with pack thread. The covering of his head is a deep crowned hat with narrow brim. The serfs pay about ten or twelve roubles annually (about L2 sterling) to their nobles, and also a certain proportion from the women and children. If not able to make up the tribute they must beg, borrow or steal to make up the deficiency. Their food consists chiefly of vegetables, and coarse fish, with black bread made of rye, but considered very nutritious. Both sexes wear a crucifix on their breasts, suspended round their necks by a string, which is put on at their baptism and never afterwards taken off; those of the peasants are of lead, b
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