hill nearly two miles in circumference; it is surrounded
by high walls of stone and brick, with several towers and gates, the
most important of which is the gate of the Redeemer. Over the arch of
which is a picture of the Saviour, with a lamp constantly burning.

The passage through the tower is about twenty paces long and every one,
be he what he may, Mahommedan, Heathen or Christian, must take off his
hat and keep it off till he has passed through to the other side. It is
a truly singular sight to watch the carriages coming along at full speed
slackening their pace as they approach the sacred gate, while the lord
and lackey cross themselves reverently and drive through hat in hand.
The first time, forgetting to uncover, I was reminded by a sentinel at
some distance, and also my companion to put down her parasol. The
greatest care is taken not to allow dogs to enter through the gate.

Within the Kremlin are contained all the most interesting and
historically important buildings of Moscow, the holiest churches, with
the tombs of the ancient Tzars, Patriarchs and Metropolitans, the
remains of the ancient palace of the Tzars, the new one of the late
Emperor, the arsenal, the senate house and architectural memorials of
every period of Russian history, for every Russian monarch has held it
his duty to adorn the Kremlin with some monument.

In the new palace erected by the Emperor Alexander after the great
conflagration of 1812, the most remarkable apartment is that of the
Emperors containing a bed with a straw mattress, half a dozen
leather-covered chairs, and a small looking-glass, making up the whole
of the furniture.

The little palace erected by the Emperor Nicholas has some valuable
paintings and a good library.

Here is also another bedroom more wonderful than that just described.
The former Emperor slept on straw covered with leather, but it was
loosely stuffed; the mattress of the Emperor Nicholas, on which he lay
is stuffed so that a shutter in its absence would prove no great
inconvenience.

It is difficult to say how many churches there are in Moscow, the
several accounts differ so widely. Some speak of 1,500, others 500; the
former number must include public and private chapels, and those in
convents, but the holiest of them all are three in the Kremlin. Though
not extensive, they are crowded with pictures and shrines, the heavy
pillars that support the fine cupolas are covered with gold from top to
botto