of the Var. The perfume of flowers from numerous beds reaches the
stands, where one may enjoy a magnificent view of mountain and sea,
whilst a good band discourses music in the intervals of the races. Some
of the prizes are important. The Grand Prix de Monaco, for instance,
popularly known as "The Cup", consists of an object of art given by the
prince of Monaco and a purse of twenty thousand francs, without counting
the entrance-stakes. On the second day is run the great hurdle handicap
for seventy-five hundred francs called the Prix de Monte Carlo, and on
the third and last day of the meeting the Grand Prix de Nice, a free
handicap steeple-chase for a purse of ten thousand francs.

The international pigeon-shooting matches at Monaco, which occur at the
same time, contribute, with the races, to give an extraordinary
animation to this period of the season at Nice. The betting-ring feels
the influence of the proximity of the gaming-tables, where everybody
goes; and yet one could so easily exchange this feverish life of play
for the calmer enjoyments of the capital _cuisine_ of London House and
an after-dinner stroll on the English Promenade or the terraces of Monte
Carlo, in dreamy contemplation of the mountains with their misty grays
and a sea and sky of such heavenly blue. But no: this charming programme
is wantonly rejected: not the finest orchestras, not the prettiest
fetes, not the newest chansonettes sung by Judie and Jeanne Granier
themselves, can turn the players for a moment from the pursuit of their
one absorbing passion. Play goes on at the Casino of Monte Carlo the
livelong day, the only relaxation from the _couleur gagnante_ or _tiers
et tout_ being when the gamblers step across the way to take a shot at
the pigeons or a bet on the birds; for they must bet on something, if it
is but on the number of the box from which the next victim will fly. And
when in the evening the players have returned to Nice it is only to
indulge the fierce passion again in playing baccarat--the terrible
Parisian baccarat--at the Massena Club or at the Mediterranean, where
the betting is even higher than at Monaco. Hundreds of thousands of
francs change hands every hour from noon to six o'clock in the morning
in this gambling-hell--a hell disguised in the colors of Paradise.

But let us fly from the perilous neighborhood and reach the nearest
race-course by the fastest train we can find. The passion for the turf
is healthier than the