a wooden railing. Into this
cabinet the president retires between the acts of the performance. The
stage is small, and the scenery very indifferent.

The performances are for the most part wretched, both as regards the
merit of the pieces and the talent of the actors. Nothing can be in
worse taste than the little farces called saynetes, which, according to
Spanish custom, always close the performances, whether the principal
piece be a tragedy or a comedy. Common-place intrigues form the subjects
of these _saynetes_, and their dialogue consists of vulgar jokes. They
are altogether calculated to banish any gratifying impression which
might by possibility be produced by the principal piece.

For some years past a company of Italians, settled in Lima, have given
operatic performances on a small scale. One of them, Signora
Pantanelli, is an excellent singer, and would be heard with pleasure
even in Europe. Some other members of the company have middling talents,
but the rest are decidedly bad. The operas performed are Giulietta y
Romeo, Parisina, Lucia di Lammermuir, Marino Faliero, La Sonnambula, and
Il Barbiere di Seviglia: these, together with a mutilated Norma, and a
much curtailed Semiramide, form almost the whole repertory. Want of
stage room is an obstacle to the representation of operas demanding
grand scenery and machinery. The costumes are for the most part
exceedingly elegant, though seldom historically correct. The orchestra
is defective, and ought to be much improved, to give satisfaction to a
public passionately fond of music.

But if the inhabitants of Lima are great lovers of music, dancing has no
less powerful attractions for them. Though the time is gone, when the
dress of any opera-dancer may be expected to reach below the knee, yet
the drapery of a Limanese Terpsichore appears to have attained even an
ultra degree of curtailment. The representation of ballets, properly so
called, is not attempted; but the Bolero, the Fandango, the Cachucha,
and Don Mateo, are favorite and often repeated performances.

During the long intervals between the acts, smoking is permitted in the
pit and in the outer court of the theatre. There is also a plentiful
supply of very bad and very dear refreshments.

An intolerable annoyance experienced in visiting the theatre at Lima is
caused by the swarms of fleas which infest every part of the house, but
most especially the boxes. Unfortunately, this nuisance is irremediable,