rrive with
all the formalities and ceremonial of durbar to beg us not to cut grass
in a particular field, or to request the return of the empty grain-bags
to the monasteries. The Amban said that he had met with nothing but
shuffling from the 'barbarians' during his term of office. They were
'dark and cunning adepts at prevarication, children in the conduct of
affairs.'

The counsellors, however, began to show signs of wavering. They were
evidently eager to come to terms, though they still hoped to reduce our
demands, and tried to persuade the Commissioner to agree to conditions
proposed by themselves.

Throughout this rather trying time our social relations with the
Tibetans were of a thoroughly friendly character. The Shapes and one or
two of the leading monks attended race-meetings and gymkanas, put their
money on the totalizator, and seemed to enjoy their day out. When their
ponies ran in the visitors' race, the members of Council temporarily
forgot their stiffness, waddled to the rails to see the finish, and were
genuinely excited. They were entertained at lunch and tea by Colonel
Younghusband, and were invited to a Tibetan theatrical performance given
in the courtyard of the Lhalu house, which became the headquarters of
the mission. On these occasions they were genial and friendly, and
appreciated our hospitality.

The humbler folk apparently bore us no vindictiveness, and showed no
signs of resenting our presence in the city. Merchants and storekeepers
profited by the exaggerated prices we paid for everything we bought.
Trade in Lhasa was never brisker. The poor were never so liberally
treated. One day a merry crowd of them were collected on the plain
outside the city, and largess was distributed to more than 11,000. Every
babe in arms within a day's march of Lhasa was brought to the spot, and
received its dole of a tanka (5d.).

I think the Tibetans were genuinely impressed with our humanity during
this time, and when, on the eve of our departure, the benign and
venerable Te Rinpoche held his hands over General Macdonald in
benediction, and solemnly blessed him for his clemency and moderation in
sparing the monasteries and people, no one doubted his thankfulness was
sincere. The golden Buddha he presented to the General was the highest
pledge of esteem a Buddhist priest could bestow.

When, on September 1, the Tibetans, after nearly a month's palaver, had
accepted only two of the terms of the treaty,[22] Co