he could go on snow
shoes but his usual means of travel in a country, covered by forests,
but with a net-work of lakes and rivers, was by canoe. Malbaie could be
reached either from Tadousac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, one of the
earliest mission stations in Canada, or from Baie St. Paul in the other
direction. The St. Lawrence was oftentimes a perilous route. Its waves
rise at times huge as those of Ocean itself; a frail canoe could only
hug the shore and at times would be storm bound for days. The missionary
travelled usually with an attendant. They carried a portable chapel with
the vessels necessary for the celebration of the mass. We have a
description of the arrival of one of these missionaries, the Abbe Morel,
as long ago as in 1683, at Riviere Ouelle where one now takes the ferry
to cross to Murray Bay. A group of people stand on the shore watching a
small black object round a distant point. As it comes nearer they see it
is a birch bark canoe, paddled by two men. In a short time the bow of
the canoe has touched the sandy beach where stands the waiting group. As
the figure in the bow rises a long black cassock falls down to his
feet; he is the long expected missionary come to celebrate mass. With
the sun sinking behind the mountains of the north shore, a kind of
triumphal procession escorts the missionary to one of the neighbouring
houses. The evening is spent in preparation for the service of the
morrow. The priest hears confessions and imposes penances. At daybreak
on the following morning the people begin to gather, some coming by land
from the neighbouring clearings, others, in birch bark canoes, from
points more distant. Perhaps fifty persons gather before the house.
Meanwhile in its best room the portable altar has been arranged. Silence
falls upon the people as they enter the door. The mass begins; after the
gospel the priest preaches a practical sermon with impressive solemnity.
The mass over, a second service, vespers, soon follows. Then the people
separate. Before the priest leaves he says the office of the dead over a
grave made, it may be, many weeks ago, he baptizes children born since
his last visit, and perhaps marries one or more bashful couples. "How
beautiful upon the mountains," says a Canadian historian of the work of
these devoted men, "are the feet of those who bring the gospel of
peace."[29] Such a scene we may be sure was enacted many a time for the
benefit of the scattered sheep at Malb