rey banks of clay; then smiling fields sloping gently up to
the high land; at times the canoe is in shade, then in the flashing
sunlight. The river grows milder as it nears its mouth but the
excitement does not end until we float under the bridge at Malbaie
village and lift the canoe over the boom fastened there to catch logs in
their descent. To paddle home in calm water across the bay seems tame
after dancing for two hours on that tossing current.

Of course there are many walks and drives--on the whole the most
delightful of Malbaie's diversions. The favourite walk is to "Beulah." A
generation that does not read its Bible as it should may need to be told
that Beulah is the name of the land no more desolate in which the Lord
delighteth; some Bible reader so named a spot on the mountain where one
looks out far, far, afield in every direction for immense distances. It
may be reached by a forest path straight up the mountain side from
Pointe au Pic. We go through spruce and birch woods till we reach an
opening where we look out northward on rounded mountain tops blue,
silent, immeasurable, spreading away, one might almost fancy to the
North Pole itself, so endless seems their mass. On beautiful turf
through woods, then by a cow path across a bog, the path leads until a
bare hill top lies full in view. This is Beulah. Standing there one
seems to have the whole world at one's feet. When Petrarch had climbed
Mount Ventoux, near Avignon, the first man for half a century to do so,
the scene overwhelmed him; thoughts of the deeper meaning of life rose
before his mind; he drew from his pocket St. Augustine and read: "Men go
about to wonder at the height of the mountains and the mighty waves of
the sea, and the wide sweep of rivers and the circuit of the ocean and
the revolution of the stars, but themselves they consider not." I never
stand on "Beulah" without thinking of this passage. Far away to the
distant south shore, and up and down the river we can survey a stretch
of eighty or ninety miles. We stand in the midst of a sea of mountains
and look landward across deep valleys in all directions with the ranges
rising tier on tier beyond.

[Illustration: THE GOLF LINKS AT MURRAY BAY]

Among diversions for men golf, in spite of a certain reaction, has still
the chief place. The club house is on the west shore of the bay. One
plays out northward. The players zigzag here and there among curious
earth mounds formed by the eddying