haven of rest, the tavern of Gutter Vawr in the
county of Glamorgan.

CHAPTER XCIX

Inn at Gutter Vawr--The Hurly-burly--Bara y Caws--Change of Manner--Welsh
Mistrust--Wonders of Russia--The Emperor--The Grand Ghost Story.

The old woman who confronted me in the passage of the inn turned out to
be the landlady. On learning that I intended to pass the night at her
house, she conducted me into a small room on the right-hand side of the
passage, which proved to be the parlour. It was cold and comfortless,
for there was no fire in the grate. She told me, however, that one
should be lighted, and going out, presently returned with a couple of
buxom wenches, who I soon found were her daughters. The good lady had
little or no English; the girls, however, had plenty, and of a good kind
too. They soon lighted a fire, and then the mother inquired if I wished
for any supper.

"Certainly," said I, "for I have not eaten anything since I left
Llandovery. What can I have?"

"We have veal and bacon," said she.

"That will do," said I; "fry me some veal and bacon, and I shan't
complain. But pray tell what prodigious noise is that which I hear on
the other side of the passage?"

"It is only the miners and the carters in the kitchen making merry," said
one of the girls.

"Is there a good fire there?" said I.

"Oh yes," said the girl, "we have always a good fire in the kitchen."

"Well then," said I, "I shall go there till supper is ready, for I am wet
to the skin, and this fire casts very little heat."

"You will find them a rough set in the kitchen," said the girl.

"I don't care if I do" said I; "when people are rough I am civil, and I
have always found that civility beats roughness in the long run." Then
going out I crossed the passage and entered the kitchen.

It was nearly filled with rough unkempt fellows, smoking, drinking,
whistling, singing, shouting or jabbering, some in a standing, some in a
sitting, posture. My entrance seemed at once to bring everything to a
dead stop; the smokers ceased to smoke, the hand that was conveying the
glass or the mug to the mouth was arrested in air, the hurly-burly ceased
and every eye was turned upon me with a strange inquiring stare. Without
allowing myself to be disconcerted I advanced to the fire, spread out my
hands before it for a minute, gave two or three deep "ahs" of comfort,
and then turning round said: "Rather a damp night, gentlemen--fire
cheering to