on for them, they
landed at mid-day. They found the road level and very sandy, lined
with prickly pear, pomegranate, fig, orange, and lemon trees, the
finest they had ever seen. On reaching Ramlah, Mr Montefiore was so
fatigued he could scarcely dismount; almost too weak to walk.

_Wednesday, October 17th._--They left Ramlah at 7 A.M., and entered
the gate of David at Jerusalem at 5 P.M.

On approaching the holy city they dismount, manifesting their grief at
the sight of Jerusalem in ruins, as mourners do when bewailing the
loss of some dear relative. Mr and Mrs Montefiore then offered up a
fervent prayer, giving thanks to God for having brought them safely to
Jerusalem, the great and long desired object of their journey, and
praying for His blessing on all they loved.

They then repaired to the house of Mr Joseph Amzalak, while the
gentlemen who accompanied them took up their quarters in the Greek
convent.

_Thursday, October 18th._--They attend Synagogue at break of day in
the house of their host. "Thanks to Providence," Mr Montefiore says,
"I feel better, though still very weak." They receive visits from the
head and representatives of the Spanish Hebrew community, also from
the head and representatives of the German Hebrew community, all
making the kindest offers of their services. Great complaints were
made of poverty in Jerusalem, and oppression by the Governors, who
were for ever calling for more money. "There are," they said, "fifty
Portuguese families, consisting of about 200 individuals; forty German
families, or 160 persons; and near 200 elderly widows in great
distress."

Mr and Mrs Montefiore subsequently went to see the foundation stones
of the ancient Temple, generally called the "Western Wall"; also to a
house, from the roof of which they had a fine view of the Mosque of
Omar, which is built on the site of Solomon's Temple. On their return
they called on the Rev. Haham Moses Soozin (the spiritual head of the
Portuguese community), but as he happened to be out, they went to take
coffee with the Rev. Rabbi Mendel, who occupied a like position in the
German community. "He had prepared an excellent room for us," writes
Mr Montefiore, "but our kind host would not allow us to leave him."
During their absence from home the Governor sent to say, that he
expected Mr Montefiore to come and take coffee, and that he regretted
that Mr Montefiore should have gone to the Jews: if he did not like
going to the con