regulate the number and
distribution of the wood and the fruit bearing buds. The proper
balance between these is greatly affected by pruning and can be best
regulated by experience with the particular tree or variety. A perfect
balance is hard to get, but with study and skill it can be closely
approximated. Pruning, too, may thin the fruit, as removing branches
removes fruit buds. This is best done by removing small branches near
the ends of larger ones. It is a much cheaper method of thinning than
picking off individual fruits, but not as effective.
TIME OF PRUNING.--The particular time of the year for pruning is not
vital. As between summer and winter pruning, winter is to be preferred
because of the physical effect on the tree. Summer pruning is an
unnatural process and should only be practiced as a last resort to
check growth or induce fruitfulness, as it may result in injury to the
tree. It is essential that a tree mature its foliage, which it
frequently does not do after summer pruning. Diseased, dead, or
injured wood should be removed when first observed, summer or winter.
Spring is the logical and usually the most convenient time to prune on
the general farm. While dormant season pruning may be done at any
time between November 1st and June 1st, the cuts heal more rapidly in
the spring when the sap begins to flow. In regions subject to severe
and drying winds in the winter, pruning should be deferred at least to
late winter. Considered from every standpoint, March and April are
quite the best months in which to prune. After the removal of useless
branches, the normal amount of food material is delivered to fewer
buds under greater sap pressure and the remaining buds are made more
strong and vigorous.
In removing small branches with a knife or other cutting tool, the cut
should be made upward from below and opposite a bud. On upright
growing varieties the last bud left should be an outside one to induce
the tree to spread as much as possible, while on spreading trees
leaving as the last bud an inside one has a tendency to make the tree
grow more upright. Always cut close to the parent branch, never
leaving a stub no matter how young or old the tree.
Cuts of lateral branches should be made just at the shoulder of the
branch where it joins the parent. A cut behind the shoulder will not
heal, neither will one too far ahead of it. A stub left on a trunk or
large branch does not heal, but soon begins to rot at
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