easily be overdone and should be
adjusted according to conditions and the needs of the orchard.

(3) CULTIVATING.--If the orchard has been in sod for a number of
years, as is often the case, it is usually best to plow it in the fall
about four inches deep, just deep enough to turn under the sod. By so
doing a large number of roots will probably be broken, but such injury
will be much more than offset by the stimulus to the trees the next
season. It is a good plan to apply the stable manure on the top of
this plowed ground early in the winter. Fall plowing gives a better
opportunity for rotting the sod and exposes to the winter action of
the elements the soil, which is usually stale and inactive after lying
so long unturned. In the spring the regular treatment with springtooth
and spiketooth harrows should be followed as outlined in Chapter V.

(4) SPRAYING in the old orchard is essentially the same as elsewhere.
It is necessary, however, to emphasize the first spray, the dormant
one, winter strength on the wood. This is the most important spray for
a neglected orchard and it should be very thoroughly applied. It is a
sort of cleaning-up spray for scale, fungus, and insects which winter
on the bark. In orchards where the San Jose scale is bad a strong
lime-sulphur spray should also be used in the late fall in order to
make doubly sure a thorough cleaning up. It is usually a pretty good
plan to scrape old trees as high up as the rough, shaggy bark extends,
destroying the scrapings. For this purpose an old and dull hoe does
very well. This treatment will get rid of many insects by destroying
them and their winter quarters.

PATCHING OLD TREES.--A few suggestions on patching up the weak places
in an old tree may not be entirely out of place. The question is often
asked, will it pay to fill up the decayed centers or sides of old
trees? If the tree is otherwise desirable to save, it usually will.
Scrape out all the dead and rotten material, cleaning down to the
sound heart wood. Then fill up the cavity with a rough cement, being
careful to exclude all air and finishing with a smooth, sloping
surface so as to drain away all moisture. This treatment will probably
prevent further decay and often acts as a substantial mechanical
support.

Trees which are badly split or which have so grown that a heavy crop
is likely to break them over should be braced with wires or bolts.
Where the limbs are close together a bolt driven righ