the mention
of that name with honour in that place would have exposed him who
uttered it to a violent death. The incident was very cheering as an omen
of the dawn to benighted India, when, through the tender mercy of our
God, Jesus the light of the world shall shine into the hearts of its
teeming population, and raise them into the sunshine of heaven.

Lucknow, as well as Cawnpore, has undergone a great change since 1859.
We saw it last in 1877, when traces of the fierce conflict which had
been there carried on had well-nigh disappeared; while on every side, in
new roads opened up, in miserable tenements thrown down, in new houses
erected, and in rubbish removed, evidence was given that the effete
government of the Kings of Oude had given place to the vigorous
government of their Western conquerors. Nothing is now to be seen of the
ruins and desolation of the Residency. The ground has been levelled,
trees planted, paths made, and the whole place is kept in beautiful
order. On the highest spot there is a memorial cross. All out from
Lucknow for miles, at the instance of friends, monuments have been
raised, some of them with very touching inscriptions, in memory of the
fallen, so far as the spots where they fell could be identified.

[Illustration: THE LA MARTINIERE, LUCKNOW.]

We returned to Benares with a very vivid impression of what we had seen,
with a new realization of the sufferings our countrymen had endured,
with deepened admiration of the heroism they had shown, and with
thankfulness at once for our rescue as a people from destruction, and
for the restoration of our rule.

[Sidenote: VISIT TO DELHI.]

We continued at our post at Benares till March, 1861, when the state of
the Mission admitted of our obtaining a much-needed retreat to the Hills
for a few months. We accordingly left Benares for Almora, and took Delhi
by the way, where we remained a few days. This was our second visit to
the grand old imperial city. On this occasion we visited the scene of
the memorable events of the Mutiny year, as we had previously done at
Cawnpore and Lucknow. We went to the heights commanding the city, where
our army was encamped for months, at once the besiegers and the
besieged, and from which at last they took the city, after a contest so
desperate and bloody that for days the issue was doubtful. The palace,
with its magnificent halls of audience and entertainment, where the
Emperors of India had for ages kept their co