hoping to strike up
against some Indian settlement, and pass the night somehow or other. I
trudged along for goodness knows how long until I eventually did hear
some sounds indicating that at any rate I was nearing some encampment or
habitation. I could hear what was supposed to be music, and in the dark
made my way, as near as I could judge, in the direction of the sound,
and in about half an hour my efforts were rewarded, as I had overtaken a
band of roving Indians, all in fancy dress, playing funny reed
instruments and dancing continuously as they travelled. They could not
speak Spanish, but at that time I knew sufficient of their
language--"Aymara," as it is called--and soon explained to them my
position. I was allowed to accompany them, as I found they also were
bound for La Paz, and soon became a lifelong friend of theirs when I
produced a small bottle of whisky which I had with me. The experience
was of a unique nature for a white man, but I must confess I rather
appreciated the novelty than otherwise, and when I reached La Paz about
1 a.m. I felt that I had had quite an adventure, which might easily have
had a more sinister termination, had my Indian escort shown the other
side of their nature. Well, to come back to our old coach, which I think
I left at the top of the La Paz entrance, I resumed my seat and got into
the city at mid-day. I put up at an excellent hotel, of which there were
several, and at once bethought me of looking for work, as the balance in
my bank (otherwise my pocket) did not warrant my looking upon my visit
to La Paz as one of pleasure only. At the time I write of there was one
solitary Britisher resident in La Paz, and he was a Scotchman like
myself. This was before the railway from Oruro was built, and he was
proprietor of the coaches that ran, once a week, from La Paz to the
south; and I understood had quite a remunerative business. La Paz is a
peculiarly situated city, as the reader may imagine from my description
of its position. The streets are mostly hilly and steep, with the
exception of one or two which run parallel to each other on both sides
of the valley, at the foot of, and in the centre of which flows, the La
Paz river. This it bridged in about half a dozen places for horse
traffic, and while, for most of the year, there is scarcely any water in
the river, when the snow melts it is converted into a veritable roaring
torrent; and I happened to be present during one of the most s