w the ground to be lightly forked and
sweetened, replacing the manure when the dry, hot weather sets in. The
best time to perform the grafting is March, and it should be done
on the whip-handle system, particulars of which will be found under
"Grafting." Young trees may be planted in the autumn, as soon as the
leaves have fallen. Budding is done in August, just in the same manner
as roses. In spring head back to the bud; a vigorous shoot will then
be produced, which can be trained as desired. Apples need very little
pruning, it being merely necessary to remove branches growing in the
wrong direction; but this should be done annually, while the branches
are young--either at the end of July or in winter. If moss makes its
appearance, scrape it off and wash the branches with hot lime. The
following sorts may be specially recommended:--For heavy soils,
Duchess of Oldenburgh, equally suitable for cooking or dessert;
Warner's King, one of the best for mid-season; and King of the
Pippins, a handsome and early dessert apple. For light, warm soils,
Cox's Orange Pippin or Bess Pool. The Devonshire Quarrenden is a
delicious apple, and will grow on any good soil. In orchards standards
should stand 40 ft. apart each way, and dwarfs from 10 ft. to 15 ft.

Apricots.--Early in November is the most favourable time for planting
Apricots. The soil--good, sound loam for preference--should be dug 3
ft. deep, and mixed with one-fourth its quantity of rotten leaves and
one-fourth old plaster refuse. Place a substratum of bricks below each
tree and tread the earth very firmly round the roots. They will not
need any manure until they are fruiting, when a little may be applied
in a weak liquid form, but a plentiful supply of water should be given
during spring and summer months. The fan shape is undoubtedly the best
way of training the branches, as it allows a ready means of tucking
small yew branches between them to protect the buds from the cold.
They may be grown on their own roots by planting the stone, but a
quicker way to obtain fruit is to bud them on to vigorous seedling
plum trees. This should be done in August, inserting the bud on
the north or north-west side of the stem and as near the ground as
possible. To obtain prime fruit, thin the fruit-buds out to a distance
of 6 in. one from the other. In the spring any leaf-buds not required
for permanent shoots can be pinched back to three or four leaves
to form spurs. The Apricot is subjec