or packhorses, whose faithful service to the
frontier could in no wise be appreciated by a foreigner.

This region of Pennsylvania was as noted for its wagons as for
its horses. It was this wheat-bearing belt that made the common
freight-wagon in its colors of red and blue a national institution. It
was in this region of rich, well-watered land that the maple tree gained
its reputation. Men even prophesied that its delightful sap would prove
a cure for slavery, for, if one family could make fifteen hundred pounds
of maple sugar in a season, eighty thousand families could, at the same
rate, equal the output of cane sugar each year from Santo Domingo!

The traveler at the beginning of the century noticed a change in
the temper of the people as well as a change in the soil when the
Bonnyclabber Country was reached. The time-serving attitude of the good
people of the East now gave place to a "consciousness of independence"
due, Baily remarks, to the fact that each man was self-sufficient and
passed his life "without regard to the smiles and frowns of men in
power." This spirit was handsomely illustrated in the case of one burly
Westerner who was "churched" for fighting. Showing a surly attitude
to the deacon-judges who sat on his case, he was threatened with civil
prosecution and imprisonment. "I don't want freedom," he is said to have
replied, bitterly; "I don't even want to live if I can't knock down a
man who calls me a liar."

Pushing on westward by way of historic Sideling Hill and Bedford to
Statlers, Baily found here a prosperous millstone quarry, which sold its
stones at from fifteen to thirty dollars a pair. Twelve years earlier
Washington had prophesied that the Alleghanies would soon be furnishing
millstones equal to the best English burr. As he crossed the mountains
Baily found that taverns charged the following schedule: breakfast,
eighteen pence; dinner and supper from two shillings to two shillings
and sixpence each. Traversing Laurel Hill, he reached Pittsburgh just at
the time when it was awakening to activity as the trading center of the
West.

In order to descend the Ohio, Baily obtained a flatboat, thirty-six feet
long and twelve feet broad, which drew eighteen inches of water and was
of ten tons burden. On the way downstream, Charleston and Wheeling were
the principal settlements which Baily first noted. Ebenezer Zane, the
founder of Wheeling, had just opened across Ohio the famous landward
route f