ready. Her zeal
made the hot water she brought for the baths really hot, _"Caliente,
caliente,"_ and her voice would have quieted the street under our
windows if music could have soothed it. At a friendly word she grew
trustful, and told us how it was hard, hard for poor people in Seville;
how she had three dollars a month and her husband four; and how they had
to toil for it. When we could not help telling her, cruelly enough,
what they singly and jointly earn in New York, she praised rather than
coveted the happier chance impossible to them. They would like to go,
but they could not go! She was gay with it all, and after we had left
the hotel and come back for the shawl which had been forgotten, she ran
for it, shouting with laughter, as if we must see it the great joke she
did; and she took the reward offered with the self-respect never wanting
to the Spanish poor. Very likely if I ransacked my memory I might find
instances of their abusing those advantages over the stranger which
Providence puts in the reach of the native everywhere; but on the spur
of the moment, I do not recall any. In Spain, where a woman earns three
dollars a month, as in America where she earns thirty, the poor seem to
abound in the comparative virtues which the rich demand in return for
the chances of Heaven which they abandon to them. There were few of
those rendering us service there whom we would not willingly have
brought away with us; but very likely we should have found they had the
defects of their qualities.

When we definitely turned our backs on the potential poultry-farm
offered us at our hotel, we found ourselves in as good housing at
another, overlooking the length and breadth of the stately Plaza San
Fernando, with its parallelogram of tall palms, under a full moon
swimming in a cloudless heaven by night and by day. By day, of course,
we did not see it, but the sun was visibly there, rather blazing hot,
even in mid-October, and showing more distinctly than the moon the
beautiful tower of the Giralda from the waist up, and the shoulder of
the great cathedral, besides features of other noble, though less noble,
edifices. Our plaza was so full of romantic suggestion that I am rather
glad now I had no association with it. I am sure I could not have borne
at the time to know, as I have only now learned by recurring to my
Baedeker, that in the old Franciscan cloister once there had stood the
equestrian statue of the Comendador who dism