d as he had
visited the Holy Land was naturally fabled to have copied it from the
House of Pilate. Now, as if still continuing his travels, he reposes
with his wife in a sort of double-decker monument, where the Evil One
would have them suggest to the beholder the notion of passengers in the
upper and lower berths of a Pullman sleeper.

Of all the Spanish cities that I saw, Seville was the most charming,
not for those attributive blandishments of the song and dance which the
tourist is supposed to find it, but which we quite failed of, but for
the simpler and less conventional amiabilities which she was so rich
in. I have tried to hint at these, but really one must go to Seville for
them and let them happen as they will. Many happened in our hotel where
we liked everybody, from the kindly, most capable Catalonian head waiter
to the fine-headed little Napoleonic-looking waiter who had identified
us at San Sebastian as Americans, because we spoke "quicklier" than the
English, and who ran to us when we came into the hotel and shook hands
with its as if we were his oldest and dearest friends. There was a Swiss
concierge who could not be bought for money, and the manager was the
mirror of managers. Fancy the landlord of the Waldorf-Astoria, or the
St. Regis, coming out on the sidewalk and beating down a taxicabman
from a charge of fifteen pesetas to six for a certain drive! It is not
thinkable, and yet the like of it happened to xis in Seville from our
manager. It was not his fault, when our rear apartment became a little
too chill, and we took a parlor in the front and came back on the first
day hoping to find it stored full of the afternoon sun's warmth, but
found that the _camerera_ had opened the windows and closed the shutters
in our absence so that our parlor was of a frigidity which no glitter of
the electric light could temper. The halls and public rooms were chill
in anticipation and remembrance of any cold outside, but in otir parlor
there was a hole for the sort of stove which we saw in the reading-room,
twice as large as an average teakettle, with a pipe as big around as
the average rain-pipe. I am sure this apparatus would have heated us
admirably, but the weather grew milder and milder and we never had
occasion to make the successful experiment. Meanwhile the moral
atmosphere of the hotel was of a blandness which would have gone far to
content us with any meteorological perversity. When we left it we were
on th