nt. Still, if the compartment is wide and well cushioned, as it is
in Spain nearly always, with free play for your person between roof and
floor and wall and wall; and if you go at five o'clock you have from
your windows, as long as the afternoon light lasts, while you bound
and rebound, glimpses of far-stretching wheat-fields, with nearer
kitchen-gardens rich in beets and cabbages, alternating with purple and
yellow patches of vineyard.

I

I find from my ever-faithful note-book that the landscape seemed to grow
drearier as we got away from Madrid, but this may have been the effect
of the waning day: a day which at its brightest had been dim from
recurrent rain and incessant damp. The gloom was not relieved by the
long stops at the frequent stations, though the stops were good for
getting one's breath, and for trying to plan greater control over
one's activities when the train should be going on again. The stations
themselves were not so alluring that we were not willing to get away
from them; and we were glad to get away from them by train, instead of
by mule-team over the rainy levels to the towns that glimmered along the
horizon two or three miles off. There had been nothing to lift the
heart in the sight of two small boys ready perched on one horse, or of
a priest difficultly mounting another in his long robe. At the only
station which I can remember having any town about it a large number of
our passengers left the train, and I realized that they were commuters
like those who might have been leaving it at some soaking suburb of Long
Island or New Jersey. In the sense of human brotherhood which the fact
inspired I was not so lonely as I might have been, when we resumed
our gloomy progress, with all that punctilio which custom demands of
a Spanish way-train. First the station-master rings a bell of alarming
note hanging on the wall, and the _mozos_ run along the train shutting
the car doors. After an interval some other official sounds a pocket
whistle, and then there is still time for a belated passenger to find
his car and scramble aboard. When the ensuing pause prolongs itself
until you think the train has decided to remain all day, or all night,
and several passengers have left it again, the locomotive rouses itself
and utters a peremptory screech. This really means going, but your doubt
has not been fully overcome when the wheels begin to bump under your
compartment, and you set your teeth and clutch you