iosities, which
they had kindly brought as a remembrance of our visit. They took off
Mabelle to a concert, for which the superior of the convent had sent
to beg my patronage in the morning. I could not promise to be present,
and was much startled during dinner to hear that old-fashioned English
institution, the crier, going round with his bell and lustily
announcing that a concert 'was to be held this evening under the
patronage of Lady Brassey and the Honourable two Miss Brasseys.' He
kept walking up and down shouting this out until the concert
commenced, and when he disappeared the Salvation Army appeared upon
the scene with a brass band, the sounds of which are still ringing in
my ears as I am trying to write this, preparatory to going to bed
betimes to secure some rest before an early start in the morning.

_Friday, July 22nd._--This was evidently not to be a night of rest for
me. Between one and two I was awakened by the first arrivals by the
mail train. At three o'clock people began to get up and go away, and
we could fully appreciate how Australian buildings let in every sound.
Between four and five the bugle sounded to call the gallant New South
Wales Light Horse to parade. At five o'clock _I_ was called. It was a
cold, bright morning, with a hard frost, and as soon as my fire and
lamps were lighted I got up and began preparing for the journey. We
heard much galloping of horses in the early morning, and soon
gentlemen in scarlet uniforms began to appear from various parts. We
waited until a quarter to seven, and then, as our proffered escort did
not turn up, we had to go to the station without it, for fear of
missing the train. Five gallant members of the troop joined us on the
way. The commanding officer wore blue undress uniform, and the others
were in scarlet. It was amusing, on our way to the station, to see
late-comers galloping furiously along the road, and it needed a little
judicious delay to enable the scattered troopers to collect themselves
and form into line. At the station we met our old friends the Chinese
Commissioners, looking very curious in travelling-gowns over their
national costumes.

[Illustration: Off the Track]

In spite of the strict injunctions we had received to be punctual to
seven o'clock, it was 7.15 before the train started. We passed through
a pretty but barren country, and reached Warrangarra, on the frontier,
in about three-quarters of an hour. There I saw the most
extraordi