reached St. Hubert's, a pretty house, the owner
of which is now in England with his family. One of his sons remains to
manage the estate. We were soon comfortably established in pleasant
rooms looking on to a sunny verandah. The view from our windows was
perfectly enchanting, stretching away over the distant mountains, now
covered with snow. A tremendous swamp lies between the house and the
foot of the range, which accounts for the heavy mist that rises at
sunset. My room was delicious with a blazing fire, and after lunch we
went round the cellars with our kind host, and saw all the interesting
and various processes of wine-making. Mr. de Castella has introduced
the best methods of preparation, as practised in Europe, and has
succeeded in producing wines of a quality equal to the finest supplied
from the French and German vineyards. By the time we had finished our
tour of inspection it was cold and dark, and after dinner we all went
early to bed.
_Wednesday, June 29th._--We were called at half-past six, and soon
after nine made a start, in two coaches, on a cold and wintry morning,
for Black Spur. Our way first lay through the vineyards, which were
not in their best looks, having only just been scarified, as the
process is called. It means cutting off the branches and reducing the
vines to small and ugly bushes, destitute of leaves at this season. On
our way we passed a large 'selection' belonging to Mr. McNabb, who is
a great judge of prize cattle and stock of all kind, and who, like
many other Scotchmen in the colony, seems to have prospered in
everything he puts his hand to. Further on we came to Koordal, a
'reserve' for the aboriginals. It has a nice house, and the land is
good. The aboriginals are rapidly dying out as a pure race, and most
of the younger ones are half-breeds. Even in this inclement weather it
was sad to notice how little protection these wretched beings had
against its severity. We passed a miserable shanty by the side of the
road, scarcely to be called a hut, consisting merely of a few slabs of
bark propped against a pole. In this roadside hovel two natives and
their women and piccaninnies were encamped, preferring this frail
shelter to the comfortable quarters provided for them at Koordal. The
condition of the men of the party contrasted very unfavourably with
their appearance when they presented themselves under the charge of
Captain Traill, the Governor's A.D.C., at his Excellency's Jubilee
_
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