aments, some being richly bejeweled, others being made of wrought
gold--the arm being put through the opening left between this clasp
and the corresponding corner of the cloth.
[Illustration: GOLD PINS.]
[Illustration: SHAWL OR TOGA PIN.]
In the same way was arranged the half-open chiton, the open side of
which, from the girdle to the lower hem, was sewed up. A bronze
statuette illustrates this way of putting it on. A young girl is about
to join together on her left shoulder the chiton, which is fastened
over the right shoulder by means of an agraffe. It appears clearly
that the whole chiton consists of one piece. Together with the open
and half-open kinds of the chiton, we also find the closed
double-chiton flowing down to the feet. It was a piece of cloth
considerably longer than the human body, and closed on both sides,
inside of which the person putting it on stood as in a cylinder. As
in the chiton of the second form, the overhanging part of the cloth
was turned outward, and the folded rim pulled up as far as the
shoulders, across which (first on the right, and after it on the left
side) the front and back parts were fastened together by means of
clasps, the arms being put through the two openings affected in this
manner. Round the hips the chiton was fastened by means of a girdle,
through which the bottom part of the dress trailing along the ground
was pulled up just far enough to let the toes be visible. Above the
girdle the chiton was arranged in shorter or longer picturesque folds.
The chief alterations of varying fashion applied to the arrangement of
the diploidion which reached either to the part under the bosom or was
prolonged as far as the hips; its front and back parts might either be
clasped together across the shoulders, or the two rims might be pulled
across the upper arm as far as the elbow, and fastened in several
places by means of buttons or agraffes, so that the naked arm became
visible in the intervals, by means of which the sleeveless chiton
received the appearance of one with sleeves. Where the diploidion was
detached from the chiton, it formed a kind of handsome cape, which,
however, in its shape, strictly resembled the Diploidion proper. Its
shape was considerably modified by fashion, taking sometimes the form
of a close-fitting jacket, at others (when the sides remained open)
that of a kind of shawl, the ends of which sometimes equaled in length
the chiton itself. In the latter
|