case, the ampechonion was naturally
at least three times as long as it was wide. In antique pictures women
sometimes wear a second shorter chiton over the other. A great many
varieties of dress, more distinguishable in the vase-paintings,
representing realistic scenes, than in the ideal costumes of
sculptural types, we must omit, particularly as, in most cases, they
may be reduced to the described general principles.

[Illustration: PEARL SET PINS.]

From the chiton we now pass to the articles of dress of the nature of
cloaks. They also show throughout an oblong form, differing in this
essentially from the Roman toga. It, belonging to this class, was
arranged so that the one corner was thrown over the left shoulder in
front, so as to be attached to the body by means of the left arm. On
the back the dress was pulled toward the right side so as to cover it
completely up to the right shoulder, or, at least, to the armpit, in
which latter case the right shoulder remained uncovered. Finally, the
himation was again thrown over the left shoulder, so that the ends
fell over the back.

Concerning the materials of the described garments, we have mentioned
before that linen was used principally by the Ionians, wool by the
Dorians; the latter material in the course of time became the rule for
male garments all over Greece. The change of seasons naturally
required a corresponding modification in the thickness of these woolen
garments; accordingly we notice the difference between summer and
winter dresses. For women's dresses, besides sheep's wool and linen,
byssos, most likely a kind of cotton, was commonly used. Something
like the byssos, but much finer, was the material of which the
celebrated transparent dresses were woven in the Isle of Amorgos; they
consisted of the fibre of a fine sort of flax, undoubtedly resembling
our muslins and cambrics. The introduction of silk into Greece is of
later date, while in Asia it was known at a very early period. From
the interior of Asia the silk was imported into Greece, partly in its
raw state, partly worked into dresses. Ready made dresses of this kind
differed greatly from the dresses made in Greece of the imported raw
silk. The Isle of Kos was the first seat of silk manufacture, where
silk dresses were produced rivaling in transparency the
above-mentioned. These diaphanous dresses, clinging close to the body,
and allowing the color of the skin and the veins to be seen, have been