led by a foreign race.

[Page Decoration]

DRESS, TOILET AND JEWELRY.

We now come to the dress of the Ancients. We shall have to consider
those articles of dress used as a protection against the weather, and
those prescribed by decency or fashion, also the coverings of the head
and the feet, the arrangement of the hair and the ornaments.
Unfortunately, the terminology is, in many cases, uncertain. Many
points, therefore, must remain undecided. Before entering upon
details, we must remark that the dress of the Greeks, compared with
modern fashion, was extremely simple and natural. Owing to the warmth
of the climate and the taste of the inhabitants, both superfluous and
tight articles of dress were dispensed with. Moreover, the body was
allowed to develop its natural beauty in vigorous exercise; and in
this harmony and beauty of the limbs the Greeks prided themselves,
which, of course, reacted favorably on the character of the dress.

Identical with this in form is the chiton worn by Doric women. It was
simple, short-skirted, and with a slit in the upper part at both
sides. It was fastened with clasps over both shoulders, and shortened
as far as the knees by means of pulling it through the girdle. In this
form it is worn by two maidens in the Louvre, destined for the service
of the Lakonian Artemis at Karyae. They carry kinds of baskets on their
heads, and are performing the festive dance in honor of the goddess.
The exomis is worn by the female statue in the Vatican known as the
"Springing Amazon," and also by statues of Artemis, and
representations of that goddess on gems and coins. The long chiton for
women reaching down to the feet, and only a little pulled up at the
girdle, we see in a vase painting, representing dancing youths and
maidens, the former wearing the short, the latter the long, chiton. A
development of the long chiton is the double-chiton. It was a very
large, oblong piece of woven cloth, left open on one side, like the
Doric chiton for men. It was equal to about one and a half lengths of
the body. The overhanging part of the cloth was folded round the chest
and back, from the neck downwards, the upper edge being arranged round
the neck, and the two open corners clasped together on one shoulder.
On this open side, therefore, the naked body was visible. Over the
other shoulder the upper edge of the chiton was also fastened with a
clasp--these clasps, as seen in annexed cuts, were elaborate
orn